One of Osaka's most famous okonomiyaki restaurants almost always has a queue, but it moves fast thanks to seating on multiple floors. The coveted tables overlooking Dōtombori canal are worth holding out for, letting you watch the neon reflections on the water while a thick savoury pancake sizzles on the steel plate built into your table. The ritual of slicing wedges with tiny trowels and letting it cool before that first smoky, cabbage-packed bite is peak Osaka eating.