Osaka invented tako-yaki, those doughy, molten-centred octopus dumplings, and Wanaka Honten does them better than most thanks to custom copper hotplates that make the exterior crisper than usual while keeping the inside gloriously runny. Eat them with toothpicks, nibble carefully at first — the centre is volcanic — and accept that the combination of savoury sauce, mayo, and dancing bonito flakes is one of the world's great street foods.