Run by the well-travelled couple Kuri and Fusa — self-described citizens of the world — Cafe Taniwha is the kind of place that turns strangers into friends by closing time. The snug, eclectic space draws local eccentrics and international travellers in equal measure, with occasional live music and a relaxed pace that makes you lose track of the hours. It's the best first stop on Ishigaki for getting the lay of the land, and an even better last stop before catching the ferry back.