This boisterous Ishigaki City favourite serves every Okinawan and Yaeyama standard you could want in an atmosphere that's loud, smoky and thoroughly alive. The ikasumi chahan — fried rice stained jet-black with squid ink — is the signature, but the goya champuru and sashimi platters are equally reliable. Look for the traditional entrance with coral walls and a red-and-white sign. It's the kind of place where tables of strangers end up clinking glasses, and the staff's energy is infectious even on a quiet Tuesday.