Housed in a beautifully maintained century-old traditional wooden building, Hantei is a neighbourhood landmark where skewers of seasonal kushiage (fried meat, fish, and vegetables) keep coming until you say stop. The system is delightfully simple: lunch includes eight or twelve sticks; dinner starts with six, then additional rounds arrive at a few hundred yen per skewer. Each course comes with refreshing side dishes that cleanse the palate. The building alone is worth the visit.