Smoke has been billowing night and day from these rickety wooden yakitori stalls along the Shinjuku train tracks since the post-war era. The name literally means 'Memory Lane' — locals less politely call it 'Piss Alley'. Squeeze onto a tiny stool, order skewers of grilled meat fresh off the charcoal, and wash them down with cold beer as trains rumble overhead. Several stalls have English menus. It's smoky, cramped, loud, and absolutely essential Tokyo.