Step into the magical space that is BenFiddich — it's dark, it's tiny, and vials of infusions line the shelves while herbs hang drying from the ceiling. Classical music simmers in the background. The barman, Kayama Hiroyasu in his white suit, moves like a magician, grinding spices and muddling fresh herbs for cocktails that exist nowhere else on earth. There's no menu; just tell him what you like and watch the alchemy unfold. The gimlet with herbs is transcendent.