Tange Kenzo's 1991 seat of power looms over Shinjuku like a pixelated gothic cathedral, or perhaps the lair of an anime villain. The real draw is the twin 202-meter-high observatories, free to enter and open until 11pm, offering panoramic views over a cityscape that stretches to the horizon. On a clear morning you may catch Mt Fuji floating on the western skyline. Come at night when the control panel of lights blinks endlessly below you and the city feels genuinely infinite.