If you walk up the steep staircase at the rear of this excellent börek, pastry and Turkish-delight shop, you'll find a tiny café secreted under the roof. Locals eat all-day snacks of melt-in-your-mouth cheese börek, peppery ıspanaklı börek (spinach börek), delicious biscuits and sweet pastries, all washed down with tea. The breakfast set will set you back a mere two or three lira.