Nobody in Tokyo does tempura vegetables like chef Kondo Fumio. The carrots are julienned to a fine floss; the corn is pert and juicy; and the sweet potato is comfort food elevated to art. Courses include seafood picked up that morning from Tsukiji. Watching Kondo work is like watching a sculptor — each piece of tempura is impossibly light, golden, and crisp. Lunch service is at noon or 1:30pm; reserve well ahead. This is tempura raised to the level of fine art.
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