Kitazawa, Setagaya, Shimokitazawa; looks like one of the area’s more traditional establishments – and to an extent, it is. But like the area in which it resides, it’s not afraid to blend classic with contemporary, and that means creative spins on Japanese dishes like cheese tofu with honey and salted squid guts. Rammed on weekends with rowdy groups young and old drinking a little too much, it’s friendly, unpretentious, and exciting. (seasoned mackerel) and witnessing the staff torch it at your table. It’s a real show.