It's a toss-up as to which has more character here: the inventive fusion dishes or the charismatic staff who put on a show in the open kitchen. Shirube is among Tokyo's most beloved izakaya, drawing a loyal crowd to Shimo-Kitazawa for the aburi saba (blow-torch grilled mackerel), the house speciality. Reservations are recommended and a must on weekends. The energy in this place is infectious — you'll leave buzzing.