By evening, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves exquisite kaiseki dinners. But the real secret is the weekday lunch — humble iwashi (sardines) transformed by Nakajima's chefs into something divine, for one-tenth the dinner price. The line forms before the 11:30am opening. Look for the white sign at the top of the stairs and arrive hungry. It's the kind of place where a few hundred yen buys you a glimpse of culinary genius.