Up a treacherous stairway in Golden Gai, this tiny ramen shop is where the niboshi (dried sardine) broth revolution began. Now a brand with locations across Asia, the Golden Gai original still has the most character — a handful of seats, a chef working in a space barely larger than a closet, and egg noodles swimming in a deep, umami-rich sardine broth. Open 24 hours, it's the perfect post-bar-crawl destination in Shinjuku's most atmospheric drinking quarter.