Okay, this is the big one, and it’s world-famous for a reason. More than 200 tiny bars and restaurants jostle side-by-side in this labyrinth of six dark alleys and backlit acrylic signs. It’s got a touristy reputation, which many of the bars play on by adding a cover charge, but make no mistake – it’s still a local favorite. You’ll just have to look a bit harder to find the less crowded and more welcoming spots (you may get some side-eye from regular patrons if you fail to spot the “no tourists” or “regulars only” signs on some of the doors). Should you need a helping hand, start at Ace’s, an English-friendly place where a mix of locals and tourists mingle, and then head to Death Match in Hell which, despite its name, is a warm and tiny bar that plays, you guessed it, a whole lot of metal music. Whatever you do, don’t arrive too early, as nothing opens before 9pm. sipping on a freshly squeezed lemon sour at The Open Book – it’s the only drink this book-lined bar makes.