Seating is on tatami mats around long charcoal grills under a soaring cathedral ceiling supported by dark timbers. Kyōya specialises in the regional dishes that define Takayama: hoba-miso grilled on magnolia leaves and Hida-gyū beef soba. The smoky aroma of charcoal and the warmth of the grill make this the kind of meal that anchors a memory. Look for the corner building by the bridge over the canal, with sacks of rice hanging over the door.