In business since 1841, Yoshino specialises in Osaka-style hako-sushi, pressed sushi formed by wooden moulds into Mondrian-esque cubes. This older version of sushi predates Tokyo's hand-pressed nigiri and features spongy omelette, soy-braised shiitake, smoky eel, and vinegar-marinated fish layered on rice with an artist's precision. It's a revelation for anyone who thought they knew what sushi was, and a reminder that Osaka has been refining this craft for almost two centuries.