Kusama Yayoi's polka-dotted yellow pumpkin sitting on a concrete pier at the edge of the Seto Inland Sea has become the symbol of Naoshima. It's a deceptively simple image — a giant gourd covered in black dots against blue water and sky — but in person, the interplay of playful sculpture and vast seascape creates a moment of pure, uncomplicated joy. It's one of the most photographed artworks in Japan, and one of the few that lives up to its Instagram fame.