Duck into this covered market just 200 metres south of Kokusai-dori and you'll find the beating culinary heart of Okinawa. The ground floor is a riot of colour: electric-blue parrotfish, pig faces split in half, snake-like sea eels, purple umi-budo sea grapes and unfamiliar tropical fruits piled high. Upstairs, a cluster of tiny restaurants will cook what you just bought downstairs, or serve their own Okinawan classics. It's noisy, crowded, and absolutely essential — the best single introduction to what Okinawan food culture actually looks and tastes like.