The Other Side

This grand neoclassical railway station on the Kadıköy waterfront was a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II — the most impressive way to arrive in Asia. Built in 1909 as the terminus of the Baghdad Railway, its German-designed facade and clock tower are best admired from the approaching ferry. Currently und

We're going to go out on a limb here, and say that this is our favourite lokanta in the city. We love the simple modern interior and ever-friendly staff, and we adore the food — everything from the yogurt soup to the stuffed artichokes, the perde pilavı (traditional chicken dish), and the self-servi

In pursuit of the holy grill — Koço's charcoal-grilled fish in Kadıköy is a pilgrimage for Istanbul's Greek-Turkish culinary heritage. The restaurant dates from the rum (Greek) fishing community era.

Karga is one of the most famous bars in the city, offering up cheap drinks, loud music and avant-garde art on its walls and in the upstairs gallery. It doesn't have a street sign — look for a green and cream building with a wooden door. Downstairs there's a small courtyard that's great for a late-af

Baylan has been serving its home-made pastries, dondurma (Turkish ice cream) and cakes to appreciative Istanbullus since 1923. This branch dates from 1925 and had its last facelift in 1961, making it a truly funky decorative time capsule. To the rear of the shop there's a courtyard complete with ast

The highest point in Istanbul — a hilltop park crowned with pine trees where the entire city unfurls before you in every direction. You can see both bridges, the minaret-filled skyline of the Old City, the Princes' Islands in the distance, and the Bosphorus winding its way to the Black Sea. Bring a