While sushi has moved in the direction of faster and fresher, Kizushi, in business since 1923, is keeping it old-school. Third-generation chef Yui Ryuichi uses traditional techniques like marinating fish in salt or vinegar — from back when sushi was more about preservation than instant gratification. The shop occupies a lovely old timber-frame house. Reserve for dinner and taste sushi the way it was meant to be: aged, nuanced, and deeply complex.