Japan's largest exhibition space has no permanent collection — and that's the whole point. The museum exists to host blockbuster visiting shows that have included Renoir, Modigliani, and major Japanese artists. But even without a ticket, the building itself is the main event: Kurokawa Kisho's undulating glass facade ripples like a curtain blown by wind, and inside, the cafes balanced on giant inverted cones feel like a set from a Miyazaki film. Come for architecture, stay for whatever happens to be on display.