Hidden in the warren of tiny restaurants called Ajikoji near Kii-Tanabe Station, this boisterous family-run izakaya is famous for ebi-dango shrimp paste balls with house-made mayo and ridiculously fresh fish that the chef himself might have just pulled in from local waters. Sit at the counter for maximum local colour: the conversation flows, the shochu pours, and the small-town warmth of Tanabe wraps around you like the best kind of blanket. It's the perfect fuel-up before or after the Kumano Kodo.