At the northern end of Oku-no-in's forest cemetery, Toro-do houses hundreds of lanterns donated by emperors and dignitaries, two of which are believed to have been burning continuously for more than 900 years. The warm, flickering light fills the hall with an amber glow that feels simultaneously ancient and alive. Guests are invited to write letters to Kobo Daishi himself — a tradition that connects you directly to a devotion over a millennium old. The atmosphere is deeply intimate despite the grandeur, as if time has paused and will only resume when you step outside.