Two dozen food stalls clustered near Kagoshima-Chuo Station recreate the yatai street-food culture that once defined the city. Follow your nose through the narrow lanes to find sumibi-yaki charcoal-fired chicken, glistening sashimi, teppanyaki beef, and the local star: kurobuta black pig served shabu-shabu style. Each stall has its own personality, and hopping between them — perched on tiny stools with a cold beer in hand — is one of the most purely enjoyable food experiences in southern Kyushu.